Helen Mirren's makeup artist, Ruby Hammer, has revealed three universally flattering eyeliner tricks to open hooded eyes. These techniques are designed to work with the eye shape, rather than against it, and are particularly effective for mature eyes. Here's a breakdown of each method, along with personal commentary and analysis.
The 'Batwing' Technique
This technique is perfect for creating a crisp, ageless liquid wing. Ruby explains that the key is to map the shape while looking straight ahead, rather than pulling the skin taut. She recommends using a fine-tipped liner and starting with the outer flick, angling upward toward the tail of the brow. The magic happens when you connect that tip back toward the lash line, creating a straight, horizontal line directly across the resting fold of skin. This creates a distinct, stepped notch that resembles a bat's wing when you look down, but seamlessly transforms into a perfect wing when you look forward. I find this technique particularly fascinating because it plays with the idea of illusion, creating a defined look that works with the natural shape of the eye.
The Soft Wing
For those who prefer a more diffused finish, Ruby suggests the soft wing technique. This method relies on texture rather than graphic lines, making it forgiving and suitable for mature eyes. By using a small, dense angled brush and a rich, pigmented eyeshadow, you can gently stamp a soft flick at the outer corner of the eye. Ruby advises using deep espresso, charcoal, or navy shades, which flatter a mature eye. The technique involves softly dragging the shadow outward and slightly upward toward the tail of the brow, blending the top edge to create a smokey effect. This method is elegant and soft on the features, delivering a lifted, feline elongation without accentuating any texture.
The Tightline
Ruby emphasizes the importance of protecting and preserving the visible lid space for hooded eyes. She advises against drawing a thick, heavy band of black eyeliner across the upper eyelid, as it can consume precious space and make the lid look heavy. Instead, she recommends mastering the tightline technique. Using a waterproof, long-wear gel pencil in a rich brown, aubergine, or classic black, gently lift the upper lashes from underneath. Press the pigment directly into the upper waterline and wiggle it into the roots of the lashes to fill in the gaps. This creates the illusion of a thick, luscious lash line while leaving the actual eyelid bare, open, and bright. I find this technique particularly clever because it maximizes the appearance of the eyelid space, making the eyes look larger and more defined.
Longevity and Priming
Ruby highlights the importance of priming the eyelid to ensure longevity when using eyeliner on hooded eyes. She explains that the skin of a hood naturally rests on the lash line, and natural skin oils can break down and transfer makeup within hours if the area isn't sealed. Whether creating a dramatic batwing or a diffused shadow flick, Ruby recommends using a dedicated gripping eye primer or a long-wear matte cream shadow to lock in the look all day. This simple step can make a significant difference in maintaining the desired eye makeup look.
In my opinion, these techniques are a game-changer for anyone struggling with hooded eyes. By embracing strategic placement and clever optical illusions, these methods offer a solution that works with the natural shape of the eye, rather than against it. It's fascinating to see how these techniques can transform the appearance of the eyes, and I appreciate Ruby's emphasis on the importance of priming for longevity. These tips are a must-try for anyone looking to enhance their eye makeup game, especially as we age.
